Our Secrets For Jacket Success
JACKET THEORY

Our Secrets For Jacket Success

Words by: Isla Philo. Design by: Melanie Makariou

We don’t pick favorites. But if we did, jackets would certainly be in the top running. There’s a theory to what makes the perfect jacket, and by sticking to our tried + tested methodology, we can feel confident that there’s truly a silhouette to complement every look. We’re examining some of our key styles in our usual forensic detail.

The New Power Silhouette

The Theory:

The Icon Oversized Blazer is our thoroughly modern take on power dressing. But don’t worry, it’s a far cry from the overly roomy shapes and doorway-filling shoulders of the 1980s. However, we’re still following the same train of thought: a tailored jacket remains the shortcut to confidence, and when you add in our scaled oversized fit, it brings an instantly modern edge to your looks.  

In Practice:

Named for its firm hold in every collection, the Icon Oversized Blazer is a solid investment, which is why we offer this icon style in a range of colors and fabrics that suit every setting and climate. Something our intelligent tailoring fabrics have in common year-round is our perfected blend of softness and structure, which means the tailoring holds its shape without feeling restrictive. Case in point, our Italian linen-blend tailoring fabric: the smooth shape and slight texture create a balanced weight that blurs the lines between summer and winter wardrobe distinctions, giving a single investment seasonless appeal.

And as expected, we spent a long time perfecting the fit. Yes, it’s oversized, but crucially it’s scaled in such a way that doesn’t overwhelm the figure. So you get the cool boxy silhouette, without the dreaded grandad blazer look. And we can’t stop there - once we perfect something, then we innovate it. The shorter version of the Icon Oversized Blazer, like the workwear hero Black Pinstripe style, has all the same intelligently scaled proportions (and hidden sleeve elastic) as the original, but the shorter length gives it two major bonuses. It works as an oversized shape for petite heights and is ideal for wearing over long dresses - or the matching Wrap Waistcoat. This shorter style also features a clever under-collar button, so you can fasten it into a stand neckline.

Modern Heritage

The Theory:

As a British brand, we’re big on heritage style. But for us, it’s less about elbow patches and muddy field jackets, more about making a subtle nod to our British roots while keeping things distinctly modern. Our enduring go-to style for a dose of modern heritage will always be the tweed jacket. It really is a staple in every wardrobe with unbeatable high-low styling power. Because there aren’t many jacket styles that hold up just as well with precise tailoring as they do with slouchy denim.  

In Practice:

Once upon a time, tweed meant tradition. Now, it means honouring the traditional. We’ve taken the expert techniques that go into creating woven tweed, and used them to create something fresh in our Heritage Crop Jacket, crafted in collaboration with Linton Tweeds. Read more about the intricate process of creating bespoke fabric in our Great British Tweed editorial. This clean-cut style features a custom palette that’s cleverly color-matched to the rest of the collection and our signature double zip front, so you can adjust the final fit. 

While a metallic jacket might feel like a statement piece that borders on hard to style, our version is quite the opposite. The Patch Pocket Jacket is woven with mixed-metal fibres for a champagne finish that broadens its pairing potential, working with gold or silver accessories alike. While the neat silhouette is the ideal smart-casual partner to your favorite jeans, it looks particularly good with a wide or tapered-leg silhouette. 

We can’t talk about heritage style without highlighting one of our signature silhouettes, the Utilitary Jacket, reimagined in Ruby Red or a slightly shorter version in Pale Stone. It’s a clever balance of classic and contemporary: the four utilitarian patch pockets are secured with our bespoke crest buttons in an antique-effect brass tone that complement the clean-cut silhouette, panelled and sculpted in all the right places for the most flattering fit.

Luxe Textures

The Theory:

As one of our key styling pillars, we say when in doubt, texture clash. It’s a year-round solution for adding instant interest to your looks and extending the wear-life of your wardrobe staples, and when it comes to jackets, utilising innovative textures like luxe leather or supple suede is also a key technique for adding a new edge to classic silhouettes.  

In Practice:

The swing silhouette is one of our signatures, and this season we’re reworking it in ultra-soft, unlined suede for a super-lightweight feel that makes it a year-round investment. We’ve added a ribbed jersey stand collar and raglan shoulder seams to give this piece a modern sporty-smart edge. The swing hem is the perfect complement to fitted mid to high-rise waistbands like the leg-elongator jean or the Icon pant. 

A leather jacket is a staple in every wardrobe, but there’s no reason it has to be a biker style. The clean-lined cut of this collarless silhouette speaks to our tailoring expertise, striking the perfect balance between jacket and blazer. Layered over a tee or a light knit with jeans, it’s the picture of effortless cool.

It’s In The Details

The Theory:

We think we’ve made it clear that details matter to us. More than that, we’re obsessed with them. So when it comes to choosing a fastening, button choice, or trim to finish a jacket, you can be assured that nothing is accidental, and that intelligent details often come in pairs.  

In Practice:

Decoration is a bonus, not the goal. So you can trust that any buttoned cuffs are functional, as well as looking good. A trio of sleeve buttons mean you can style the sleeves of the Short Jacket silhouette in Cocoa and Cream at different lengths. And if we think you might want to roll up the sleeves of a certain style, rest assured we’ve chosen a neutral or complementary lining color. Another intelligent detail duo as seen on the Heritage Crop Jacket: the rounded hem and double zip. The curved hem finishes just above the waistband, so you can keep your belt on display, while the double-zip fastening lets you adjust the overall fit of the style. For a straight-fit look, zip them to the full length, or bring them together in the middle to draw more attention to the waist.

Proportion Masters

The Theory:

Mastering proportion is at the heart of everything we create, and few products capture just how much time and effort goes into getting it right more than the Sharp Shoulder Blazer. It’s one of our original tailoring silhouettes that’s stood the test of time, and for good reason.  

In Practice:

Sharp shoulders, balanced lapels, and a longer-line silhouette are the three key features that make this style a standout. It’s fitted, but not so much that you can’t comfortably fit layers underneath - the structured shoulders are particularly helpful in making sure you maintain a bulk-free silhouette - and the longer fit means it seamlessly drapes over pants waistbands. Choosing the right fabric is essential too. Our signature Soft Structure Tailoring is aptly named after its soft feel that has just enough structure to hold its shape while remaining comfortable, and it’s engineered with a clever mix of fibres to minimise creasing.

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