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Woman wearing a black and white checked coat, looking to the left.

The Modern Black Tie Toolkit

23 December 2025

Words by: Isla Philo. Design by: Melanie Makariou

When it comes to black tie dressing, thankfully, the rules aren’t the same as they used to be. As attitudes and tastes have evolved, what once might have felt like a limiting dress code is now a chance for wardrobe experimentation. In our modern black-tie toolkit, we’re examining the requirements through a contemporary lens and giving you new solutions for event dressing, including how to wear a tux. 

Woman modelling with her hands on her hips, wearing a black velvet maxi dress, a gold chain necklace and a black and white checked jacket.
What is Black Tie?

The short answer? It’s formal eveningwear. The long, historical answer? Western black tie dress codes originated in the 1800s during the Regency era. Sitting in the Dress Circle while attending the theatre or opera called for a formal outfit, but these ensembles were worlds away from the classic tuxes and gowns we think of today. Men’s outfits were much more flamboyant, think the exaggerated tails and luxurious brocade fabrics of frock coats, while women would wear full ball gowns, corseted at the waist and volumised by a bustle and petticoats under the skirt. In 1865, Britain, the first dinner jacket without tails is credited to the then Prince of Wales, King Edward VII, which is closer to what we associate with black tie dressing as we know it now. Today, the requirements have loosened in comparison to centuries past - much fewer frills across the men's suits and a more streamlined silhouette for women. There are still rules, but it’s not as intimidating as it sounds. Men are expected to wear a complete tuxedo or a smart suit in dark colors, or a white dinner jacket, whereas women generally wear a floor-length dress or jumpsuit, or, more recently, and less expected, a tux. 

Woman modelling a black tux blazer, worn over a grey cardigan with a black belt and tailored trousers.

Total Tux

A tux is the ultimate black tie solution, and while the thought of wearing one might feel intimidating at first, once you find the right fit and balance of formality for you, the power that great tailoring instils in its wearer is undeniable. After all, it’s called a power suit for a reason.  

We didn’t earn our title of masters of the silhouette, or The Trouser Whisperers, by not being obsessive about our tailoring. Enter the Tux Capsule. An edit of tux tailoring pieces in a range of silhouettes so you can build a bespoke suit that ticks all the boxes: classic wool-blend fabric, satin trims and lapels and cleverly constructed shapes.

Woman wearing a black satin maxi dress, holding a small handbag.

The Classic Route 

If you want to go the classic route when dressing for black-tie invites this season, then a full-length dress is the answer. For a December black tie wedding, festive textures like velvet and velour are ideal, or if you're attending a formal work affair, then look to fluid crepe or satin. 

We’ve infused silk fibres into some of our velvet pieces, such as the Full Length Dress, giving the fabric an even more luxurious feel. While styles such as this one-shoulder Maxi Dress + Bow are crafted from Italian cotton velvet that has a more structured feel, helping to maintain the sculpted-waist silhouette. Style the detachable satin bow on the shoulder or repurpose it as a hair accessory. Our satin styles, such as the Draped Evening Dress in Black or bold Eden Green, have a fluid, lustrous quality with a slightly weightier feel, which means the fabric skims the silhouette without the dreaded static cling. Timeless monochrome, like our Statement Back Dress, will always be a winner, and since there aren’t many formal occasions when guests can wear white, embrace it with a black-tie invite. And because a formal winter outfit doesn’t just stop at the dress, finish the look with a luxurious final layer like a plush shearling jacket or collar

Woman sat on a stool modelling a brown suit, consisting of a brown oversized blazer and matching brown trousers.

Contemporary Silhouettes

Black tie requirements for women have come a long way since the 1800s, as you'd hope. There's more room for experimentation, so if you want an alternative to dresses, there are solutions that still maintain an ultra-smart look. 

We've established that black-tie tailoring isn't just for men, but if you don't want to commit to a full tux, you can still create an equally smart and striking look with suit separates. This season's Oversized Blazer + Ultra Wide-Leg Trouser in Ganache Brown tick the box for formality, while maintaining a modern look and feel. Choose a silk blouse with a matching scarf and style it as a necktie to add a further masculine-feminine twist to the occasion. Or for the perfect middle ground between gown and suiting, opt for a jumpsuit. The aptly titled Black Tie Jumpsuit comes in luxuriously tactile silk-blend velvet or fluid satin, both featuring an artfully draped neckline and bodice before falling to wide-cut legs. 

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